We don’t tend to disagree with the opinion of Giles Coren, and on the subject of Brat there’s thankfully no exception. Heralded by Coren as “Europe’s most exciting new restaurant” we found Tomos Parry’s fresh digs to be serving up some of the most insanely simple yet perfectly executed plates of food we’ve eaten in a long time.
Firstly, we must address the Dining Room. A secluded ascension from the discrete entrance on Redchurch street via some nicely lit wine displays leads you up to perhaps the best naturally lit restaurant space in the whole of London. (Attending for lunch on one of the few truly Spring-like days may have made this stunning daylight reveal even more captivating). The original timber panelling of this old warehouse building circumferences the rooms and perfectly compliments the industrial Crittal windows. Any new joinery or fittings such as the bar, showcased utmost quality and craftsmanship and honesty of material. Timeless opaque glass globe lights provide a subtle warmth that we were sure would only improve with twilight. There was nothing showy, nothing contrived – the interior space was a precursor for the food to come.
Staff were the perfect balance of friendly, attentive and helpful, as at first it was unclear to us how to navigate the menu. It almost looked like you could have your own starter and main (a rarity these days on the London restaurant scene), although the waitress assured us we were best to share all dishes in order to experience the best the menu had to offer. After much deliberation we got there in the end and perhaps over ordered but trust us, it’s hard not to with all the “smaller” plate items showcasing the big hitters such as Egg Salad with Bottarga, Dressed Crab and Smoked Cod Roe. The produce really does the talking on every plate; even the potato side dish managed to tell the story from its earthy origins. At times it almost seemed absurdly basic. Yet all items were cooked and seasoned to utter perfection that you began to never want to eat another plate of food that had more than three ingredients on it again!
Brat is our kind of restaurant, minimal fuss and froth to the surroundings and on the plate. It’s an honest and hard working offer but a restaurant that we can foresee becoming a long standing “true Londonder” favourite alongside the likes of St John and Rochelle Canteen.